Discover what ceramides are, how they work in the skin, what types exist, and why they are essential in cosmetic formulation to reinforce the skin barrier and improve hydration.
What Are Ceramides and Why Do They Matter in Cosmetics?
Ceramides are essential lipids naturally found in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. They account for approximately 50% of epidermal lipids and play a key role in forming and maintaining the skin barrier. This structure prevents excessive water loss and protects against external aggressors. In functional cosmetics, ceramides are used to restore the skin barrier, especially in dry, sensitive, or damaged skin.
Skin Barrier and Homeostasis: The Role of Ceramides
The skin’s barrier function depends on a precise organization of lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. When this organization is disrupted—due to aging, irritants, or conditions like atopic dermatitis—trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) increases, and the skin’s defense weakens. Topical use of ceramides helps restore this lipid architecture, reinforcing the barrier and improving natural hydration.
Types of Ceramides Used in Cosmetics
Human skin contains over 300 molecular species of ceramides, grouped into 12 classes by structure. In cosmetic formulation, the most common and effective are:
• CER[NP]: enhances hydration and strengthens the skin barrier
• CER[NS]: stabilizes lipid organization
• CER[AP]: promotes elasticity and cellular cohesion
• CER[AS]: ideal for dry or flaky skin
• CER[EOP]: intensive repair for mature or damaged skin
• Phytosphingosine: a natural precursor that stimulates endogenous ceramide production
How to Formulate with Ceramides for Maximum Efficacy
To ensure ceramide efficacy in a cosmetic product, it’s essential to:
• Use biomimetic structures (e.g., NP, AP, EOP)
• Employ proper delivery systems (liposomes, dispersions, blends)
• Combine them with cholesterol and fatty acids in physiological ratios (3:1:1)
• Maintain appropriate pH and emulsification conditions
A well-designed formula can significantly improve hydration, softness, and skin barrier function within 30 days.
Ceramides and the Skin Microbiome: A Key Synergy
Ceramides are not only structural lipids—they also support microbial balance on the skin. A lipid-rich barrier helps beneficial bacteria like Staphylococcus epidermidis thrive, while also preventing colonization by harmful species. Moreover, some skin microbes can even stimulate ceramide production by keratinocytes. This mutual support strengthens the skin’s resistance to irritation, infection, and inflammation. Using ceramides in dermocosmetic formulations is an effective strategy to reinforce both the physical and microbial integrity of the skin.
Which Ceramide to Use and When
Which Ceramide to Use and When
| Ceramide | Key Function | Typical Cosmetic Use |
| CER[NP] | Improves moisture retention and reinforces the skin barrier | Moisturizing creams, for sensitive or dehydrated skin |
| CER[NS] | Stabilizes lipid organization | Nourishing formulas for dry or damaged skin |
| CER[AP] | Provides elasticity and cell cohesion | Anti-aging and restorative products |
| CER[AS] | Supports flaky or compromised skin | Formulas for sensitive, itchy, or tight-feeling skin |
| CER[EOP] | Intensive repair, prevents water loss | Intensive treatments for mature, very dry, or compromised skin |
| Phytosphingosine | Stimulates natural ceramide production | Biomimetic or microbiome-friendly formulations |
- CER[NP]: for moisturising formulas, sensitive or reactive skin.
- CER[NS]: useful in nourishing products for dry skin.
- CER[AP]: recommended in anti-ageing or firming formulas.
- CER[AS]: for itchy, tight or flaky skin.
- CER[EOP]: ideal for intensive treatments or mature skin.
- Phytosphingosine: perfect in biomimetic and microbiome balancing formulations.
Conclusion: Ceramides as a Core Ingredient in Advanced Cosmetics
Ceramides are a foundational component of healthy skin and an effective cosmetic ingredient when used properly. They are ideal for products targeting dry, sensitive, aging, or barrier-compromised skin. At Ismael Quesada, we work with selected technical-grade ingredients designed to meet the demands of modern cosmetic formulation.
References
- Masukawa, Y. et al. (2020). Characterization of overall ceramide species in human stratum corneum.
- CeraVe / L’Oréal Clinical Study (2024). Evaluating the effect of moisturizers containing endogenous lipids.
- Lee, H. J. et al. (2022). Role of skin lipids in the human microbiome. Scientific Reports.
- Huang, H. C. et al. (2023). The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin.
- Oh, M. J. et al. (2021). Stratum corneum pH and ceramides – key regulators of skin barrier integrity.
- TiN5 Skin. Types of ceramides. https://www.tin5skin.com/read/types-of-ceramides/